| Most people are familiar with the River Kwai | | | | green peaks in the backdrop give it a special |
| Death Railway as being Thailand's scenic rail trip | | | | feeling, especially when experienced in the |
| option. However it is really the infamy of the line | | | | atmosphere of Lanna's cool morning air. The |
| that escalates this trip in the eyes of the visitor. | | | | tunnel itself claimed many lives during its |
| Admittedly spectacular in parts and with beautiful | | | | construction over a century ago and a plaque in |
| scenery along the Kwai Noi River to Namtok at | | | | respect of those workers can be seen at the |
| the end of the line, it is but a small segment of | | | | southern portal. Many will argue the point that |
| the SRT system and by no means the only | | | | Hua Hin, with its Royal waiting room, is the more |
| memorable sector to be found. | | | | pleasant (and certainly more photographed) |
| The River Kwai services leave from Thonburi | | | | station, but Doi Khun Tan, with its inaccessibility, is |
| station with additional services from the main | | | | a credit to the people that created it and those |
| Hualom-phong station during the November | | | | who currently man it. It really is only visited by |
| festival time. The Thonburi station affords splendid | | | | those hiking into the National Park and for that |
| views of the river and is close to the Royal Barge | | | | reason alone has far fewer visitors than the Hua |
| sheds as well as being an architectural wonder | | | | Hin version. |
| with its clock tower facade. | | | | Sprinter train travellers on the Chiangmai day |
| Whether you have an interest in railways or not, | | | | service from Bangkok will see Doi Khun Tan in |
| trains are still an immensely pleasurable way to | | | | the evening twilight, which can be almost as |
| view the Thai countryside and are also cheap. The | | | | rewarding. The Sprinter service has become |
| rail fare to Nam Tok, at the end of the Kwai line | | | | popular since its introduction, allowing train |
| is still only 60 baht for a one way ticket and the | | | | travellers to see all of the countryside between |
| Wongwian Yai service can still be found at around | | | | the two major cities during daylight. A similar |
| 20 baht round trip. | | | | situation exists with the Surat Thani to Bangkok |
| On local trains and many of the long distance | | | | sprinter service where travellers are able to view |
| expresses, vendors still ply their wares at the | | | | the coastal section from the south in daylight, |
| various stops along the line and many will be | | | | previously missed with only the overnight sleeper |
| already aware of the new Korean -manufactured | | | | services available. Sprinter trains, with their large |
| sleeper carriages available on most routes. Sleeper | | | | viewing windows and airline-style reclining seats |
| fares are still a real deal and more comfortable | | | | are a comfortable and affordable way to view |
| than ever and all first class carriages now have a | | | | the countryside. There are no traffic jams and |
| shower area at the end of each carriage. | | | | one isn't constantly watching for oncoming traffic! |
| The Korean rolling stock is but the latest | | | | The only criticism of the international express, and |
| progressive foreign intervention into the State | | | | indeed all sleeper trains within the kingdom is the |
| Railway with Japanese Kawasaki train units and | | | | fact that first class sleepers have berths situated |
| British Rail "Sprinter" trains having upgraded the | | | | across the car. As trains tend to rock from side |
| quality of train services within the last 10 years. | | | | to side, actual sleep is only usually achieved in |
| Of course, the whole system was German-built, | | | | second class where berths are |
| being a dream of King Chulalungkorn to link the | | | | configured lengthways along side the carriage |
| hinterland to Bangkok and create a united "Thai | | | | windows. The result in first class, despite the |
| Land" as well as fortifying links to the weak | | | | privacy of a double cabin, is one of being shunted |
| border points. It has recently celebrated its | | | | up and down the bed in a traditional railroad |
| operational centennial with services duplicating the | | | | manner. Check out the disembarking sleeper |
| original public service to Korat. | | | | passengers when you are at journey's end. The |
| The climb to the Korat Plateau, after the lineside | | | | upperclass travellers always seem to have that |
| temple views at Ayutthaya and especially Lopburi, | | | | extra jaded style to their morning arrival. |
| is another of the lesser-noticed scenic sectors of | | | | First class berths on the E & O Express are |
| the system. Here the route skirts Khao Yai | | | | configured correctly i.e. lengthways and the luxury |
| National Park and the slow ascent affords | | | | of this service far surpasses the SRT public trains |
| excellent views of the lush central plains | | | | and perhaps most other services in the world. |
| disappearing into the distance to be replaced by | | | | The train is not a remnant of a bygone age, as |
| the comparatively flat and bare Isaan rice bowl. | | | | are the sister trains in Europe, but a converted |
| For scenic mountain ascents the Doi Khun Tan | | | | version of New Zealand's Silver Streak, |
| National Park has by far the best to offer. Most | | | | Christchurch to Greymouth train of the 1980's. It |
| travellers will see it at its best if being an early | | | | blends well as a replica, but the minimum $1400 |
| riser (0600-0700) on the Express Sleeper from | | | | for the one way 2 night trip to and from |
| Bangkok to Chiangmai. | | | | Singapore is, to most, still expensive. Far easier to |
| The morning light hits the deep forested valleys in | | | | experience the train on the frequent Saturday |
| an array of color that is difficult to find elsewhere | | | | night 5 hour dinner specials from both Bangkok |
| in the region and the basically uninhabited area | | | | and Singapore at $150 (6,450 baht) per head. |
| adds to the slow switchback trundle of the train | | | | Look out in the local press for departure dates. |
| up the mountain. The climax of the ride is the | | | | For those looking for the alternative experience |
| final ascent to Doi Khun Tan station through a | | | | and not requiring E & O luxury, steam |
| 2km tunnel, finally arriving at, in this writer's | | | | excursions ply the local Bangkok routes on the |
| opinion, the most beautiful, well kept station in the | | | | King's Birthday and Chulalungkorn Day as well as |
| Kingdom. Basketed blossoms on the platform and | | | | during the Kwai festival. |